A Summer Stroll in Ponto Cho

Hisano, a beautiful young maiko from Ponto-cho in her casual daytime yukata, sheilded from the scolding summer sun by a Japanese paper umbrella.


Hisano strolls along the narrow alley known as Pontocho, the second largest traditional entertainment district in Kyoto, after Gion. Running 500 meters (0.3 miles), it is bordered on the east by the Kamo river and the Takase-gawa canal to the west.


A clear sign the summer has come. More than 80 of Pontocho's restaurants, bars, and other establishments set up wooden balconies on stilts over the canal on the west bank of the Kamo River, between Nijo Street and Gojo Street.


The famous Kamo River has been the backdrop of the Geisha and Maiko of Kyoto since the mid 17th century, when the first tea houses of Gion and Pontocho sprang up. Summer is the perfect chance to enjoy dinner by the cool, clear waters of the Kamagawa.


The mountains fade into blue as your eye follows the path of the river downstream, until its hard tell where the mountains end and the clouds begin


Pontocho's mon (crest) adorns the bright red lanterns that line the narrow alleyway, bringing a soft glow to magical evenings among the old buildings, illuminating ephemeral glimpses of geiko and maiko as they disappear into the night. The chidori is a small bird known as a plover, often spotted along the banks of the Kamogawa.

Lindsey's Farewell Fireworks: Osaka Style

Right about now Lindz is somewhere over Asia, on her way to the tropical paradise that is Thailand. I should be sitting next to her on the plane, reading a lonely planet guide to my Thai adventure or struggling with Thai expressions like, "Spicy, please!" but thanks to my Board of Evil (aKa Education), I am stuck in Ena, with nothing to do but blog about our fantastic farewell weekend in Osaka



Saturday was Lindz last day at Nova, so while she struggled to get thru it I spent a rough afternoon shopping in Namba! Her farewell party was at Ninikuya (the Garlic Shop), a beautiful resturant with an eclectic menu featuring a delicous array of dishes dashed with garlic. The bathrooms are fully equipped with toothbrushes and toothpaste for all those foul breath faux paus that such a selection is destined to cause, but it was delicous! The best part about it all was that Mitsu was able to come too, and since he's on his way to Tampa Bay, Florida, for the next year, it was the last time we'd all get to party together. Even though he kept stealing my food, it was great to see him again!



After dinner we peer pressured him to join us for Karaoke, a staple of party culture in Japan. Of course he couldn't resist the chance to hear our beautiful voices so he trekked back to Shin-Osaka with us. Highlights of the jam session included his rendition of Rakuen Baby (listen to it here: track #5) by Ripslyme and Mr.Big's I'm the One Who Wants to be With You, a cross cultural favorite! I got some pretty entertaining video of it all, if I ever figure out how to upload it...

After everyone else went to sleep we decided to watch The Beach, in honor of Lindz encroaching departure. We didnt pass out til after 6 AM! Unfortunately, I had a reservation in kyoto at 3, so we had to be up a ready to go by noon. But that's for another post!



Lindz' friend Yukiyo had invited us to the PL (Perfect Liberty, a new religion in Japan) fireworks display in Tondabayashi, PL`s Holy Land. Its the largest display in the world, with over 120,000 fireworks! We headed to Yukiyo`s, where her mother and 6th grade sister struggled to dress all three of us in Yukata in time to brave the crowded trains and streets early enough to secure a good seat, which we did, 3 hours before the show began. As we walked around the crowded lot admiring yukatas, I found a few admirers myself. A Japanese man yelled out "Kawaii!" a few times before braving a "Hello!" to get my attention. "Mecha Kawaii! (Super cute)," he assured me, smiling. "Niateru! (It suits you!)." As we headed back to our seats (a plastic bag stretched out on the hot concrete of the Holy PL Parking Lot, a Peruvian man walked up to me, looked me up and down and said "Hola guapa!" Hmm...Maybe I should wear yukata more often!



The fireworks were well worth the the wait! Its been a long time since I saw fireworks, but these were amazing. They were sending hundreds up at a time, for over and hour!

PL is the world's largest yearly display of fireworks, with over 120,000 fire flowers blooming in the stars (a typical fireworks festival will launch between 5,000 to 10,000). Highlights include "Niagara Falls", a 50 meter high, one kilometer long river of falling fire (pictured left). The grand finale, a firestorm of more than 7,000 fireworks launched at once, transforms the night sky into a burst of light, if only for a moment.

The music was kind of creepy- new age PL style- and probably loaded with subliminal messages to join the dark side, but we survived unconverted.

The finale was incredible. The sky lit up like it was broad daylight, and the sound rattled the ground beneath me and caused my heart to skip a beat. It was terrifying and breath-taking. I got video of that, too!

We ended the night at a sentou, or pubic bath/onsen, where we soaked the marathons of walking we had done over the weekend away.I passed out staring at a huge poster of Johnny Depp playing the piano hanging on Yukiyo's ceiling. It was after 2 AM (I had to be up by 4:30 to begin my trek back to Ena), but it was the perfect end to an amazing weekend!

Sayonara Lindsey-san! I'll miss you!

Osaka Bound! 大阪へ！

Yuko (one of my best friends from Kansai Gaidai) and I in front of Namba's Neon wall, with the famous Glico Running Man (Glico is a Japanese candy company).

I'm headed for Osaka this weekend to say Sayonara to Lindz, fellow maiko wannabe, and general Japan-land partner in crime, ready to repatriate herself after a year of teaching for Nova.

Gion Matsuri Maiko: Makiko

This is young Makiko, a maiko from Gion, on her way to watch the Procession of Dieties with her patron, the mop of grey hair hidden behind her glossy black lobes. The swarms of people gather along Shijo-dori parted like the Red Sea as gracefully glided towards the shrine. This is Makiko's first or second Gion matsuri as a Maiko! Her upper lip is still covered in the white makeup that overs the rest of her face, and her collar is still predominantly red. As she advances in skill and experience, she will be able to paint her upper lip in deep crimson, while her collar will gradually become less ornate, until she becomes a Geiko.

Gion Matsuri: Procession of Dieties

Ususally the only shot of Yasaka Shrine one can get is with a few ugly buses, taxis and cars streaking thru the foreground, but with Shijo-dori closed to traffic for the procession, the street is filled with happi-clad mikoshi carriers and lined with excited onlookers. Here, three mikoshi, or portable shrines, rest before Yasaka Jinja (shrine) before being carried by the men in white throughout the streets of Gion.



There is something strikingly Biblical about these mikoshi...I remember the first time I saw one at the Kurama Himatsuri during my Gaidai days, I immediately thought of the Ark of the Covenant. I am completely aware that there is a very descriptive description (redundant much?) of the Ark in the Bible, and that is it very different from what you see before you here, but the thread that joins all of mankind and its history together is, for me, blatantly aparant in these ancient traditions. You can't tell me that the ornamentation on the roof of the mikoshi doesn't look like a menorah!

Unlike the festival hoko floats, Mikoshi are not pulled, but carried on the shoulders of many men. Not only are they carried through the streets of the city for hours, they are thrown into the air and jostled about to excite the crowd. After bouncing the Mikoshi down Shijo a bit, these men made a turn onto the Hanamikoji, "Wasshoi"-ing their way past the Ichirikiya, the most famous Ochaya ( 'teahouse', where Geisha and maiko entertain) in the history of Japan...

Gion Matsuri : Yoiyama Kyomai

祇園祭り：よい山の京舞

Mihoko (left), recently graduated from senior ranking maiko to full-fledge Geiko, performs Kyomai for the Yoiyama festivities with the maiko Ichimiyo. Their uchiwa, (Japanese fans) are decorated with their name, and the districts of Gion that they represent. When Geiko or maiko entertain during Gion Matsuri, they give their patrons one of these fans as a keepsake.

Last time I saw Mihoko, she was dancing as an apprentice in the Miyako Odori. She looks so much more refined and elegant as a Geiko!

Kyomai, or Kyoto Style Dance, developed in western Japan under the influence of Noh theatre. Unlike other odori, or kabuki styled dances developed in Edo, Kyomai is performed in Washitsu, Japanese style tatami mat rooms, where its subtle movements, the embodiment of the elegance and sophistication of the imperial court, can be viewed at close range .

Kyomai is not meant to be performed on stage, but in the intimacy of Japanese rooms .

Gion's entertainers practice the Inoue school of Kyomai. This style of dance is very different from that performed in Kyoto's other entertainment districts

The Inoue school is characterized by minimal motions based on the masked drama of Noh and the puppetry of Bunraku.

Even in this picture, if you compare the gesture of the hands between the Mihoko (Geisha) and Ichimiyo (maiko), the difference in mastery of these simple movements is clear.

Geiko present themselves in a much more subdued fashion because they do not need the bright colors and flashy ornamentation to compensate for their lack of skill.

Kyomai symbolizes the gracefulness and lifestyle of the imperial family.

This is the fruit of my Japanese language labour...I was able to read the kanji foretelling the appearance of Geiko and Maiko performing Kyomai, as well as the names written on their uchiwa! Obsessed as I am, this gave me a great sense of accomplishment and furthur motivated me to press on! Who knows what gems of information are hidden in the kanji that clutter this country (besides the people that can read them)? Let's fighting ganbaro!

Stay tuned...more Matsuri Maiko pix to come...

Check out Justin Klien's Gion Matsuri Video to get a better idea of what this festival is all about!

Gion Matsuri: Yamahoko Junko

The History of Gion Matsuri

Gigantic floats gradually turn on smooth, green, bamboo logs, split in half and laid out on the rough cement. The crowds cheer with excitement and burst into applause every time the massive Yamahoko turn the corner with the thunder of creaking wheels.

Gion Matsuri did not begin as the joyous celebration it is today. Its story beins in the year 869, as a deadly epidemic devastated the empire. The Shinto diety Gozu Tenno, also known as Gion, was known for his healing power and protection of its followers, as well as the power of transferability via sacred carriages. Seeing the plague as a punishment for impiety, Emperor Seiwa sent his messengers to Gion Shrine (now known as Yasaka,) to pray for relief, and ordered 66 floats to be erected, one for each province of Japan.

They were paraded thru the streets, purifying the city, until they arrived at Gion shrine (Yasaka), where prayer rituals were performed to expel the epidemic. Miraculously, the plague ended .

From that point on, whenever a plague broke out, the ritual was repeated. It did not become an annual event until 970, by which time the festival had become an integral part of the townspeople's lives, each year more elaborate than the first. When the Muromachi shogunate halted all religious events in 1533, the townspeople resisted strongly, declaring in true Japanese fashion that they could do without the rituals, but not the procession.

Gion Festival as we know it today began to take shape in the 1600's. By then it’s religious origins had been eclipsed by the prosperity of the people, becoming a a showcase of the wealth and splendor of Kyoto’s merchant class. As trade expanded beyond the land of the rising sun, imported tapestries from China, Korea, Persia, the Netherlands, and France, along with Nishijin tapestries, the finest in Japan, began to adorn the festival floats, giving the festival a unique international air.

This year the parade fell on a Sunday for the first time in 11 years. The number of spectators reached about 240,000 according to the Kyoto Prefectural Police, tying with the record number of spectators recorded in 1989.

The Chigo, or sacred child, acts as an intermidary between the gods and the people. During the procession the Chigo is not allowed to touch the ground, and must be carried by other men. Traditionally, Chigo rode on all Gion Festival floats except the Fune-boko. However, towards the end of the Edo Period, this practice stopped, and children were gradually replaced by dolls. Nowadays, only the Naginata-boko keeps the tradition of having children ride aboard it.

Every community in Gion has its own float, owned by a wealthy merchant family, that has been passed down thru the centuries. The members of each community can be distinguished by their happi or yukatas, decorated with the community crest or kanji design.

This is a hoko. Hoko weigh about 12,000 kg and stand at about 8 meters from ground to roof, not to mention the poles at the top, which reach about 25 meters. Before the parade, a crew of workers came down the street turning all street lights and signs off the road so as not to interfere with their procession. I was suprised as this floak creaked slowly past me to reveal an extremely modern looking (art deco style) tapestry decorated with a Christian Cathedral design, a cross at the heart of the composition.

They are pulled by between 30 and 40 people with long ropes.

These guys try to keep the wheels spinning wihtout getting run over or losing any limbs. The carriages are still constructed in traditional sacred fashion,without nails. Everything is held together with elaborate roping techniques and interlocking wood.

Two pilots stand on a running board at the front of the float to guide it (four when turning,) and four roof lookouts keep the mast steady and clear of obstructions, such as power lines.

Check out the beautiful Castle design...not exactly tradtional Japanese! It must have been even more exciting for the internationally isolated people of Japan to see the imported tapestries of places and people so different from the one they knew.

Yama floats are much smaller, and can be pushed, pulled or carried by 14-24 men.

Participants in traditional hakama and straw hats.

A medeval tapestry depicting the life of royalty and knights in shining armor.

Fune boko, "The Boat Float," is the most unique in the procession, led by a legendary pheonix, the golden Geki.

According to Japanese mythology, this float is based on an ancient ship used by the Japanese empress, Jingu Kogo, reputed have conquered three Korean kingdoms - Silla, Kokuryo and Pekeche, while pregnant with the future emperor. Japanese women still pray to Kogo Jingu for safe delivery. Because of her success in the war, she is also regarded as the Goddess of War.

The main figures in this float are Empress Jingu Kogo and Ryujin - the Japanese dragon god of the sea (one of the figures shown in the picture). According to legend, Ryujin controls the tidal flow with hismagical Tide Jewels. Prior her invasion of Korea, Empress Jingu Kogo prayed to Ryujin, who granted her the magical Tide Jewels. The Japanese fleet set sail towards Korea, and the Korean fleet sailed out to confront them. When she saw the approaching fleet, the empress quickly threw the Low Tide Jewel into the sea so that the tide receded at once and the Korean fleet was beached. The Koreans all jumped out onto the mudflats, and at that moment the empress threw the High Tide Jewel in, and a tidal wave drowned the men and carried the japanese fleet to victory.

Young boys riding on the floats wear stylin' Yukata and play Gion Bayashi, tradtional festival music of flutes and bells.

Despite the fact that I left to secure a seat along the parade route over 2 hours before it began, thousands of people were already camped out at the corners of Shijo and Karasuma when I arrived. Luckily I found a spot just down from the corner sitting on the street, so I was still able to see the hoko make their death-defying turns. (I say 'I' because my fantastic travel buddy, JBlo, slept in and met me afterwards). Note to self: Next year be prepared to head for Karasuma at the crack of dawn! And get a decent camera, not to mention a cooler travel buddy! Nothin' but love Jblo! (^.^)/